Wedding Dresses

01

WEDDING GOWN ACCEPTANCE & CLEANING

The inspection and acceptance of wedding gowns is similar to the inspection of other fine clothing, but requires a bit more insight and intuitive thought. I say intuitive because many stains and other pre-existing conditions are often hidden in the volumes and layers of fabric and trims. Needless to say, gowns can be frightfully expensive and cherished, so give them all your attention!

Remember, you may be inspecting a new gown – a day or a week after the wedding – or it may be a gown that’s been sitting in the bride’s closet for a year, which means that the stains and soil could be old and stubborn. It could be a secondhand gown or a 3^rd generation heirloom with discolored fabric, odor, old stains, and dry-rotted fabric. Be sure to get help from a manager to learn more about this.

One more thing … many gowns are brought in by the mother, mother-in-law, sister or bride’s maid, and these people may not know much about the gown. They also may not relay all the details to the bride, so write down everything! 

03

INSPECTION

The “hot spots” for stains are around and inside the neckline, underarms, and hems – inside the folds of the fabric – and down the front and back. Many times, the bride doesn’t even know a spill occurred because it happened during a hug or a dance. Depending on the season, you may also see pollen stains on the side of the bodice (bust).

You also have to inspect for loose or missing beads, sequins and pearls and trims. Pearls and trims may be attached by wax or glue – that dissolve in cleaning – trims may be loose or damaged. Pearls can be “flattened,” delustered and peeling. Many gowns need minor repairs for loose hems, open underarm and side seams, and loose or missing buttons. Satin, textured silk, organza, and chiffon require extra attention for snags, yarn slippage and dulled or delustered areas.

Top to Bottom …

Gowns are best inspected hanging instead laid flat on the counter. This allows you to view the whole dress – top to bottom – and to spin it around for a 360º inspection.

1. Start at the top, looking inside the neckline for makeup and perfume stains, down the top of the bodice – left and right – to the waist. Stop.
2. Then inspect the sleeves, shoulder to cuff. Lift the sleeves to inspect the underarms – down the sleeves (front and back) to the cuff and inside the cuff.
3. Start the section from the waist down to the floor level. Spread the skirt out as wide as possible. For very full dresses, break up the skirt inspection into sections – left, middle, and right.
4. If the gown has a long train, start inspecting the front of the train, all the way to the floor. Check the hem for soil and sewing.
5. For extra long trains – beyond floor length – look very carefully and slowly.
6. Lift the hanger off the hook, turn the gown around, and repeat steps 1-4.

Act as if this is a NEW gown, just off the sales floor. If it’s not perfect, then make a note. Use a diagram if your manager provides one.

Note: Always check the buttons up the back and on sleeves. They may be loose or hanging from a thread, soiled, or actually missing.

04

Stains and Identification

Perfume can cause stains and discoloration if it is not removed properly. If it’s an older gown, or the bride has been slow getting it in for cleaning, perfume and other stains can turn yellow or brown. When a stain takes on a yellow or brown hue, it is often a sign of permanence.

Stains: The Look and Feel

A lot can be learned by looking at stains and actually feeling them.  Is the stain absorbed into the fabric, built up on the surface – does it have an outline around it, or no outline, how dark is it, has it spread?

• Champaign and white wine spills may be “invisible” or they may have a ring around the perimeter.
• Red wine can be very absorbed and spread, maybe even diluted because someone put water or club soda on the spill to remove it.
• Pollen can be a yellowish dusting on the surface, or it can be absorbed if someone tried to remove it with water (which makes it tougher to remove).
• Hairspray can produce small round spots that usually rest on the shoulders.
• Lipstick, makeup and even eyeliner – from the many congratulatory kisses and hugs – can be found around and inside the neckline.
• Hem soil can be dark and stubborn, especially with long trains and “sweeps.”
• Grass stains from wet grass can also be very difficult to remove in drycleaning.

Large spills, grass stains, and heavy hem soil may require extra spotting and possible wet cleaning, so be sure to consult your manager until you better understand the process.

More Stain Identification:

Most water-based stains such as wine, soda, champagne and perspiration have an outline around the outside of the stain. Most oil-based stains are absorbed into the material – may be clear in color – and do not have an outline around the outside. However, they can also look “wicked” and can take on the shape of a cross.

01

Special Fabrics: Drycleaning or Wetcleaning?  

This decision is usually based on stains, fabric type, and your company’s operating procedure and preference.

Silk, satin, taffeta, chiffon, organza and acetate need special care and attention during inspection. Linen gowns – though not that common – require extra attention to open seams and hems. 

02

Pre-Existing Conditions

Remember what I said about claims and noting all conditions on the ticket; holes, tears, yarn slippage, color loss and color changes. You always want to share these conditions with the customer, but it’s even more of an issue with wedding gowns because of the value and sentimental attachment. Don’t take this lightly and don’t blurt out problems because people can become scared and defensive. Stay mellow and upbeat and take it slowly!

Yarn Slippage:

Fabrics such as silk, satin, taffeta, chiffon and organza are brittle and do not stretch. These types of fabrics, when pulled or stretched, can separate or “slip,” creating spaces between fibers so you can actually see “through” the fibers. This condition is usually seen under the arms, at the waist and upper back.

Color Loss and Deluster:

As a rule, inspect gowns in good light and always tilt the fabric into and away from the light. This allows you to see delustered, dull, and roughed areas.

Because most gowns are white – and you don’t have the benefit of color to highlight color loss and dulled areas where the fabric has been rubbed – you need to be extra attentive when inspecting for these conditions. Use red tape or stain stickers to mark the affected areas.

Very bad things happen to fine fabrics when people rub stained areas with a wet napkin. Try to catch these problems during inspection, show the bride or representative, note them on the ticket, and learn what your company can do to improve the affected area.

01

Note:

Heirloom gowns, which may be weak and even dry rotted (a most fragile condition) and disintegrating, require more skill and experience during inspection. Dry rot can be the result of age, poor storage, or long term stains. It is easy to assess because the fabric often tears as easily as toilet paper. To test this condition, gently “pull” on the fibers to see if they separate. There are ways to repair and restyle these gowns, so consult with your manager and seamstress before addressing these conditions with the customer.

02

Buttons and Hardware

Gown buttons are usually covered with fabric. This fabric can fray or “pull” away from the button stem. Buttons can also become discolored or yellowed. Sometimes these buttons will need to be removed before wet cleaning because they can rust. Sometimes it makes sense to replace worn or discolored buttons rather than attempt to clean or restore them.

Occasionally you will see pearl or glass buttons on a gown, but it is unusual. If you do see these types of buttons, remember to consider protecting or removing them before cleaning.

Hardware, such as zippers and zipper pulls, beads, crystals and dangles also may need protection or removal before cleaning. If you remove items from gowns, be sure to count them and note the information on the ticket, when applicable.

01

Repairs and Alterations: Important!

When a gown has been worn and is being prepared for cleaning and possible preservation, the need for repairs can take on a different meaning. If a gown needs repairs to be safely cleaned – and to minimize further damage to hems and such – then suggest that the work be done before cleaning.

However, if a gown has considerable damage to seams, hems, beading and trims – and it NOT going to be worn again for 15-20 years or until it is handed down – it may not make sense to do the repairs now. The next person to wear this gown may be a different size or shape, requiring substantial restyling and alterations. If this is the case, then many of the repairs can be done at that time – saving the customer money now. So, recommend this when the problem arises, and it will arise! Your customer will appreciate the care and insight you’ve provided.    

02

Accessories, briefly Speaking

Shoes – Most shoes have scuffs and dark polish from men stepping on the bride’s shoes. Some may have grass stains and soil, especially if it was a wet day. Money can be made and shoes can be saved by special spotting and brides will appreciate it. 

Headpiece – Inspect for makeup and loose beads and stones. It may require spot cleaning or hand cleaning to ensure that it does not get damaged.

Veil – Inspect for spills and makeup and tears in the netting or tulle. Check the sewing where it attaches to the headpiece or comb. Again, the veil may require hand cleaning or wet cleaning depending on the age, condition and color. Veils can also have dry rot, so check closely for this condition.

Slip or Crinoline – These are usually washable and hardly worth a lot of work. Check for tears and broken stitches at the waist, side seams and hem.

Gloves – Most are made of fabric and can be cleaned or washed. Pay special attention to the finger tips. If they are leather, consult a specialist.