Shirt Services

01

All you need to know about shirts

The collar, cuffs and front button placket are the showcase of every shirt, so these areas must be crisp and clean and pressed without wrinkles. Laundered shirts can suffer from a number of problems and many can cost upwards of $500 – $1,200. If shirts are miscounted or accepted in a damaged condition, and not noted on the ticket or brought to the attention of the customer and the manager, it can cost the company money in claims, and negatively affect customer relations.

02

INSPECTION

Inspection at the counter varies from cleaner to cleaner, based on their acceptance procedure. Some cleaners do a quick inspection at the counter for tears, stains and wear, with a definite count on the total number of shirts. Others do it all at the counter, in front of the customer. And others do all the inspection and detail, except for the count, during mark-in and tagging.

One thing common to all drycleaners is that most customers are in a hurry when dropping off shirts, and it’s your job to be quick and thorough. Many people come in with an armful of shirts and throw them on the counter. Because of this, you may not always have the time to inspect every laundered shirt – as you would a silk blouse. It’s important, however, to inspect the shirts for button problems and tears and, at a minimum, to ask the customer if they are aware of problems with any of their shirts. Collar stays should be removed before washing so they don’t crack, melt or shine through to the other side of the collar during finishing. It is your job to do whatever you can to convey the customer’s needs.

03

Inspection at a glance …

The bottom line is that there are a bunch of problems that can occur and the more you know about shirt inspection and acceptance, the more valuable you and your company become. Here’s a quick list, and then we’ll follow up with a more focused examination of each issue. You are looking for pre-existing conditions; holes, tears, wear, broken and missing buttons, stains, surface prints, unusual shirts and designs that should not be laundered “as usual,” followed by a suggestion for a different level of surface, high-end and very expensive shirts and designer labels … So, let’s get started.

Buttons are a very important part of all laundered shirts. Loose, broken or cracked, missing and mismatched buttons all compromise the customer’s satisfaction and ability to wear the shirt. Your store may have a “flag” that says, “Broken Button” that you can attach to the problem shirt. (Though most shirts have buttons that can withstand washing and finishing at hot temperatures, buttons still crack and chip).

Cracks can turn to breaks, especially on collar and cuff buttons, so watch out for that. It is your company’s goal to replace all broken buttons with matching buttons, whenever possible. Examples of fragile buttons to watch for; raised edges that can crack or chip, thick and big – which can get smashed, delicate metals that bend or break, pearl or shell that shatter …

Some of these unique buttons should be removed before laundering. In some cases, a fancy button is a hint that a particular shirt should be processed by Hand instead of by Machine. It’s your responsibility to recognize this type of shirt and to recommend the Hand service.

04

Buttons & Travel

When people travel, they depend on their drycleaner to make sure that all their clothing is perfect and Ready-to-Wear (RTW). I can remember, more than once, being on a business trip and dressing for a meeting to find that the shirt I wanted to wear had a missing or cracked button. Men are very concerned about missing buttons when they travel because most men don’t sew! I was forced to wear a different shirt and was not happy about it. In fact, many men want their shirts folded instead of hanging when they are preparing to travel. Do the customer and your company a favor by double-checking your ticket to make that it says, “Fold or Box.” (Some men prefer folded shirts at home, as well, because they have more room in drawers than in their closets).

05

Frays, Tears, Discolorations

One of the most delicate areas of concern for your company is the condition of laundered shirts. Men typically wear shirts until they fall apart and, unfortunately, the shirts usually fall apart during laundering, which puts the blame and cost of replacement on you! The inspection you do at the counter can catch many of these conditions before they are washed.
When a shirt gets old, it starts to weaken and fray at the collar, elbows and cuffs. If you see any of these conditions, be concerned! These frays can actually cause the shirt to fall apart. A man that has a rough beard or stubble can wear out a collar very fast (check this out the next time you wait on such a man). Repeated use of heavy starch can also weaken and shorten the life of a shirt. Holes can also form in the oddest areas, on new shirts and old. If a man catches a shirt on a file cabinet or an edge, it can result in a small tear that can become larger during washing and finishing. Stress areas, especially at the buttons on the collar and cuffs, can weaken and eventually tear. Buttons are typically re-sewn and replaced by a
“button machine” located in the laundry. Each time a button is re-sewn, the area weakens a little bit more.
When you point out a frayed area to the customer they are usually understanding and appreciate your alerting them to this condition – and, in some cases, will simply ask you to throw out the shirt at that moment. They would rather “trash” the shirt than pay the $2.00-plus to have it laundered. Alerting the customer reduces misunderstandings, increases trust, and saves your company money in claims. 
Discoloration can include yellowed underarms, white areas that look like they’ve been hit by bleach, ink swipes and dots, and dark areas on the cuffs and collars, which are usually a glue residue from the fused construction. Be sure to alert the customer and manager about these conditions.

06

Claims … Just a bit of information

When a garment is lost or “ruined” while in your possession, the customer usually wants to be paid, and sometimes they want money for a new shirt when the shirt was actually a year or two old. They still think of it as new. It is the company’s responsibility to pay the customer, without argument, when they’ve made an error.
However, if you inspect properly and see the signs of wear and discolorations and count the shirts properly the first time, you can do a lot to minimize claims. You can also build trust among your customers.

07

Collar Stays

Collar stays slide in and out of the collars and serve to make sure that the collars remain firm. All collar stays should be removed before washing so they do not crack, melt, or shine through to the other side of the collar during finishing, especially on dark-colored shirts. The operators in production should make sure that the stays are replaced after finishing. Check with your manager to confirm protocol in your store.

08

Starch!

One of the most important things to men is starch and reaching the right level of starch. There can be up to 3 or 4 different levels, from No Starch to Heavy Starch, and men get very cranky when it’s not right. Furthermore, it’s important to know that the use of starch over long periods can shorten the life of a shirt, causing it to turn brittle and tear prematurely, especially at the elbows and back. Many men do not know this and often complain that their shirts wear out too soon. Switching to light or no starch for three weeks will rinse out the residue and help shirts last longer.

09

Dark-Colored and Twill Shirts

Dark-colored shirts, thick-twill shirts, and unique or blended fabrics can also be a cause for concern. Dark and thick-twill shirts can become shiny and cheap looking if they are pressed by machine and it is your responsibility to tell the customer this. It is also your job to suggest an alternative, such as Hand Finishing, which typically does not shine these shirts.

Men are known to “slip” a dark shirt into their pile of laundered shirts, so be aware of that when counting and inspecting. I have also seen expensive silk, microfiber, and linen shirts in the same pile, so be aware of this and be ready to recommend an alternative process.

10

Special Fabrics, Prints & Designs

Most dress shirts are cotton or cotton blends. Silk, microfiber, linen, and other fragile and blended fabrics can be compromised or ruined if laundered and pressed by machine in the laundry. A shirt with a “surface” print – which sits up or is painted and embedded into the fabric – can melt or bleed from the heat of finishing.

Any shirt that is different than the typical cotton, button-down design should be treated differently. In most cases, these shirts should be drycleaned. I’ve seen very expensive silk, microfiber, and linen shirts in the same pile as the plain cotton shirts, so be aware of this and be ready to recommend an alternative process. The same applies to most blouses and shirts with epaulets, ruffles, shoulder pads and fancy buttons.

11

Tuxedo & Formal Shirt

Tuxedo shirts can have narrow or wide pleats. All pleats need to be inspected closely to see if they are crooked or mis-sewn. Many tux shirts have fragile and unique buttons, which may need to be removed before washing. Some men also use decorative “button-strips” or “studs” for the top three or four buttons, all of which should be removed before washing. The collars of tux shirts can become stained from cologne – which can eventually turn yellow – so it’s important to inspect these areas and to point out the condition to the customer. On occasion, you will see tux shirts with silk collars. These shirts should never be machine washed and pressed and may require dry-cleaning.

Perspiration often accompanies formal events, especially when dancing is involved. Many times, perspiration can cause a necktie to bleed onto the collar and the inside jacket to bleed onto the underarms of the shirt, depositing dark dye onto the white cotton shirt. Be sure to inspect tux shirts closely for dye, cologne, fancy buttons and perspiration. Starch is also an issue with tux shirts, so remember all your fundamentals!

12

Our Shirt Services and How to Describe them to our Guests

We offer several services for shirts. The price of the shirt depends on the material, material type, the construction of the garment and the time to finish the garment. We always do what’s best for our guests and their clothes.

13

Signature

A basic laundered shirt is our Signature shirt.  This level of shirt service is priced at $5.50 and is the process of choice for shirts that are 100% cotton, feature a standard full cut (not fitted, no darts), can withstand high temperatures and do not have any unique buttons or special appointments such as pocket flaps.  

14

Hand-Finished

Finer shirts, those designed with more detail or those with a fabric finish that demands a gentler laundering and finishing process are best suited to hand finishing and should be treated to our Hand Finished Service. This service is priced at $9.50. It is recommended for slim fit or tapered shirts, and /or shirts featuring a blend of fabrics, particularly spandex, Lycra, etc. and their companion fibers that necessitate lower temperatures and special handling.  Gentler handling means the shirt will not only look better but it will last longer.

15

Dry-Cleaned

Some dress shirts are best suited to dry-cleaning and not laundering.  The manufacturer’s care instructions; the fabric blend or the depth of color in the dyed goods may drive this decision. Dry cleaning helps preserve dark colors such as black, red and dark blues and therefore extends the useful life of the shirt. Dry cleaned shirts are priced at $17.50

16

Couture

We also have a Couture Hand Care (or Bespoke Cleaning service) shirt. This service starts at $33.  It is designed to satisfy the most discerning client with most precious (or prized) shirts.  It offers the prerequisite TLC that comes from hand cleaning and all hand finishing of the garment.  Many of our guests request this service for their bespoke shirts.

17

Specialty

Specialty Shirts. Some shirts are particularly known for their design, material and construction detail. Examples of these shirts are the Tuxedo Shirts, and or the Guayabera Shirts. Both shirts are generally known for having pleat patterns in the front of the shirt. The Guayabera shirt is distinctively recognized for its four pockets in the front in addition to its pleats. Generally being white, made of cotton and or linen fabrics, these shirts require additional steps in both the cleaning and finishing process. As a quality dry cleaner, we hand treat the shirts for stains and completely hand finish the pleat details associated with these types of shirts. A Guayabera starts at $26.97 and a Tuxedo Shirt cost start at $17 to process. (Each of these shirts should be detailed in their own order so that they are packaged or bagged individually.)